《巴黎月色下》内容简介：

　　本书收录了20世纪初一系列重要的时尚插画，并由曼彻斯特时尚学院研究员、博士生导师王喆撰文梳理这个时代的时尚插画历史。200余幅插画作品把我们带到20世纪初的巴黎，看装饰艺术、立体主义、东方主义是如何引领时尚和艺术的潮流，它是摄影技术之前的短暂的荣光，亦是永恒的美学灵感宝库。

　　20世纪20年代，巴黎是世界的时尚中心，在美国，VOGUE开始出版巴黎的最新时尚。这个时期同样也是时尚和传媒的转折年代，从1910年开始到整个20年代，插画被频繁使用来表现时尚，但到了20年代末，摄影开始取代插画，所以20年代的时尚插画可以说是20世纪初插画黄金年代最后的吉光片羽。

　　1908年，由保罗·波烈发起了一场巴黎时尚革命，他把女性从束腰中解放出来，带来了更简单和便于行动的衣物。那一年，他让乔治·勒帕普负责插画，出版了他的系列设计。这个作品集不光光是介绍了一种新的设计，更是打开了原本封闭的高级定制的世界，让之前只开放给精英小众群体的时尚进入了大众的视野。1912年，由吕西安·沃热尔牵头，7家当时顶尖的时尚服饰品牌背书，包括乔治·勒帕、乔治·巴比尔、查尔斯·马丁在内的年轻又时尚的插画艺术家加入了《好品味杂志》，这是一本融合了艺术和时尚的给精英阶层的订阅杂志，标语是“时尚就是艺术”。《好品味杂志》的创意在于，一是不给艺术家任何服装设计上的束缚，可以纯粹是艺术创作的想象，二是插画本身是戏剧性的、叙事性的，画中的模特仿佛是戏剧故事中的人物。1912年同样也是《今天的时尚和礼仪》创刊的一年，这些杂志在一战开始前的那几年是潮流文化的领航人，并在一战后加入了包括浪凡、香奈儿在内的更多品牌和其设计师。

　　Bon Ton的意思是“永恒的好品味”，这仿佛是个预言，就算是在100年之后的当下看这本画册，我们也能从中读出时尚和艺术的轮回。

　　作者简介

　　著者简介：

　　乔治·巴比尔（1882—1932），出生在法国南特，以设计戏剧和芭蕾舞服装、插图书籍和制作高级时装插画而闻名。他还涉足珠宝、玻璃和墙纸设计，是法国20世纪初最有影响力的插画师之一。巴比尔与作品同样收录在本书中的伯纳德·布代·德·蒙维尔、皮埃尔·布里索、保罗·伊里巴、乔治·勒帕普、查尔斯·马丁组成的插画师团体，因为他们张扬的时尚插画风格被VOGUE称为“手链骑士”。

　　王喆，Dr.Zhe Ginnie Wang，长居伦敦，博士毕业于爱丁堡大学艺术设计学院，主攻时尚文化与艺术方向研究。现任英国曼彻斯特时尚学院核心研究员，时尚艺术文化与传播方向讲师，硕士生博士生导师，时尚文化策展人。曾与英国布鲁姆斯伯里出版社合作为其时装艺术与时装秀线上风格与历史档案项目撰写多篇论文，并在Design and Culture、Fashion,Style&Popular Culture等时尚与艺术核心期刊上发表数篇论文，且任多个海外核心学术期刊编委会成员。

"Under the Moon in Paris" content introduction:

This book includes a series of important fashion illustrations in the early 20th century, and the history of fashion illustration in this era is written by Zhe Wang, a researcher and doctoral supervisor of Manchester College of Fashion. More than 200 illustrations take us to Paris at the beginning of the 20th century to see how art Deco, Cubism, and Orientalism led the way in fashion and art, a fleeting glory before photography, and an eternal treasure house of aesthetic inspiration.

In the 1920s, Paris was the fashion center of the world, and in the United States, VOGUE began to publish the latest fashion in Paris. From 1910 to the 1920s, illustration was frequently used to express fashion. However, by the end of the 1920s, photography began to replace illustration, so fashion illustration in the 1920s can be said to be the last auspicious picture of the golden age of illustration in the early 20th century.

In 1908, a Parisian fashion revolution was initiated by Paul Poirier, who freed women from the corset and brought simpler and more mobile clothing. That year, he put Georges Lepapp in charge of illustration and published his series designs. This collection not only introduces a new design, but also opens up the originally closed world of haute couture, allowing fashion previously only open to elite minority groups to enter the public's vision. In 1912, led by Lucien Vogel and endorsed by seven of the top fashion brands of the time, young and fashionable illustrators, including Georges Leper, Georges Barbier, and Charles Martin, joined Good Taste Magazine, a subscription magazine for the elite that merged art and fashion, with the slogan "Fashion is art." The creativity of "Good Taste Magazine" lies in that, on the one hand, it does not give artists any constraints on costume design and can be purely the imagination of artistic creation; on the other hand, the illustration itself is dramatic and narrative, and the models in the painting seem to be characters in dramatic stories. 1912 was also the year of the launch of Today's Fashion and Etiquette, which in the years leading up to the first World War had been the trendsetting culture, with more brands and designers including Lanvin and Chanel joining them after the war.

Bon Ton, which means "eternal good taste," seems prophetic, and even if we look at this book 100 years later, we can read the cycle of fashion and art.

About the author

About the author:

Georges Barbier (1882-1932), born in Nantes, France, is best known for designing theatrical and ballet costumes, illustrating books, and producing haute couture illustrations. He also dabbled in jewelry, glass and wallpaper design, and was one of France's most influential illustrators of the early 20th century. Barbier, along with the illustrators Bernard Boudette de Montville, Pierre Brissot, Paul Iriba, Georges Lepapp, and Charles Martin, whose work is also included in the book, have been called "Knights of the Bracelet" by VOGUE for their flamboyant style of fashion illustration.

Zhe Wang, Dr.Zhe Ginnie Wang, a resident of London, graduated from the University of Edinburgh's School of Art and Design with a Ph.D. in fashion culture and art. He is currently a core researcher at Manchester College of Fashion, a lecturer in Fashion Art Culture and Communication, a master's and doctoral supervisor, and a curator of fashion culture. Collaborated with Bloomsbury Publishing in the UK to write several papers for its Fashion Art and Fashion Show Online Style and History archive project, and published several papers in core fashion and art journals such as Design and Culture, Fashion,Style&Popular Culture, etc. He is also a member of the editorial board of several overseas core academic journals.